Wat Saket

Situated just a ten-minute walk from Khoasan Road, the Golden Mount is a good place to visit to escape the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Visitors can climb the 318 steps that wrap themselves around the smooth white sides of the Golden Mount, which is also known as Wat Saket.

However, the 80-meter climb can be rather challenging and is best tackled in the cooler part of the day, either at dawn or dusk. At three points, the stairs are broken by a short platform, and visitors can pause on one of these to ring the large prayer bells. Striking the bells produces a deep, majestic tone, which resonates and carries out into the distance.

The center of the Golden Mount is lit by candles and smells strongly of wax and incense. This part of the temple contains some of the Buddha relics that were discovered in 1897 under the ruins of Pipraawaa near the frontier of Nepal.

After slowly circling the centre of the temple, visitors can put their coin in the collection box and climb the short wooden ladder to the top. The view from the top is spectacular – offering glimpses right across Bangkok to the imposing structure of Bioke Tower. Nearby the Chao Phraya river sparkles, spanned by the magnificent structure of the Rama IV Bridge.

Situated in an enclosure at the front of the bot is a cutting of the sacred Bodhi tree, which was brought from Anuraadhapura in Northern Sri Lanka in 1818. This cutting is believed to be a grafting of the original Bodhi tree from Gaya in India where Lord Buddha achieved enlightenment. It is an honour to study and meditate at Wat Saket and the grounds contain accommodation for over 300 monks.

Information
Wat Saket is located near Democracy Monument on the Boriphat and Lan Luand Road Intersection. The wat is open daily 8 am- 5 pm and although entrance is free admission to the chedi costs 10B, have a coin ready.

The best time to visit is early morning or near closing, when the time to the top is cooler. During late October to Mid November Wat Saket comes alive the celebrate Bangkok’s temple fair. The festival lasts for nine days and features theatrical performances, circus shows, foods and souvenir stalls.

Getting There:
You can easily walk to the Golden Mount from Khoasan Road. Simply walk to the Gulliver’s end and follow the road round to the right. You will now be on Ratchadamnoen Klang, a busy main road, with Democracy Monument in the center. Walk straight down the road and as you pass McDonald’s on your right you will see the Golden Mount up ahead.

Dusit Zoo

Situated opposite the Royal Throne Hall, just a short walk from Khaosan Road, Dusit Zoo is unlike most zoos in Asia. As soon as visitors enter Dusit zoo, they are greeted by the arresting natural beauty of the lake. Dozens of ducks and geese waddle on the grassy shore and float freely in the cool water. Over-hung with lush trees, the lake is a piece of Eden in Bangkok’s bustling metropolis.

Signs lead the way over a bridge and find Bird Island, where birds and butterflies flutter and flap freely. In amongst the rich exotic plants, peacocks and other brightly-hued birds wander. Even those animals

Other starts of the zoo include the black bears, who reside in a large, grassy compound. Instead of cages, the bears are surrounded by a moat filled with live fish; lunch on demand.

Next door, the mole-like sun bears show off their bellies by standing on their hind legs. They stay on a similar island, this time with a waterfall providing a natural shower.

Dusit Zoo covers an area of more than 47 acres and is home to over 300 mammals, 1,300 birds and 190 reptiles. It was formerly part of the Royal Dusit Garden Palace, or “Khao Din Wana” in Thai. Established by King Rama V, this was his private botanical garden.

In 1938, the Prime Minister of Thailand asked King Rama VIII to grant him the land so that he could open the zoo to the public. The king consented and, once it had been established by the Bangkok Municipality, the zoo was opened. It was turned over to the Zoological park Organization in February 1954.

The zoo has employed many field-trained zoologists, who have helped design the enclosures. The idea was to ensure that the instincts and behaviours of the wild animals were preserved as much as possible.

Information:
Entrance to Dusit Zoo costs just 100 Baht. It is open 9 am – 9pm daily.

Getting There:
The main entrance is off Ratwithi Road. You can take many buses, including 70 from Chosen Road, 18, 28 or air-con bus number 10.

Koh Kred

Picture one of Thailand’s exotic islands and you immediately conjure the stereotypical images; long stretches of white sand, sparkling blue water, palm trees, bars, pumping music and throngs of tourists.

But there is one island that is very different. Just a short boat ride from Thailand’s capital, Koh Kred is like the land that time – and tourism – forgot. Steeped in culture, this is the perfect place to escape from the frantic pace of Bangkok for an afternoon.

After crossing the Chaophraya River and stepping onto the island, the sight of Wat Poramai Yikawat, with its gleaming white walls and squat chedi, first strikes visitors. Inside the temple grounds is a small museum, where a collection of temple treasures awaits inspection.

A narrow lane winds its way past small houses. Lining the lane are stalls displaying collections of pottery for which the island is famous. Red clay pots hang from stalls, some cleverly crafted with the faces of cartoon characters to attract children. The pottery comes in all shapes and sizes, from small pots to incense holders to huge pottery sculptures.

As visitors follow the single road they will find that the stalls gradually melt away and are replaced on both sides by tall grass, small wooden shacks and wild-looking fruit orchards and farms. There are no cars on Koh Kred, and the on transport is bicycles and occasionally passing motorbikes. Those who want to explore the entire island, which is a little under four kilometres in circumference, can hire a bicycle near the pier.

One of the island’s highlights is the Ancient Mon Pottery Center, or Kwan-Aman. Created by the Mon people, these pieces of pottery have been collected and preserved to show the ancient skills and traditions.

Visitors can watch as local artists use foot-operated pottery wheels to craft and shape the clay and the lump of wet, red clay slowly takes the shape of an elegant vase. Once finished, the potter carefully places the vase on wooden slats to dry in the sun. He then moves over to a squat jar and begins carving an intricate design into the clay with a flat piece of wood. Later, the jar will be fired in a kiln to finish it.

Before you leave, be sure to stop at the food market near the ferry pier to sample some Mon delicacies. Some of the delicacies here include Khao Chae; rice in jasmine water, accompanied by tempura vegetables. Sweet tea is served in clay pots, which make great souveniers.

Getting to Koh Kred is as easy or as challenging as your sense of adventure and wallet allow. For those with more money than time, the Chao Phraya Express Koh Kred Tour is a good option. Leaving every Sunday from Bangkok’s Central Pier, the tour costs just 300 Baht and includes a trip to the Pimonrart Floating Market.

Groups may want to split the 500 Baht river taxi fare for an easy, direct journey.

Alternatively, take a ferry down the river to Nonthanburi (N30), which costs just 10 baht. From here, take an air-con van or public bus 32/505 to Pak Kret and catch a ferry across the river to the island. The van and bus drivers don’t usually speak English, so it is a good idea to get someone to write Koh Kred in Thai for you before you go.

The Patravadi Theatre

Located on the far banks of the Chao Phraya River, the Patravadi Theatre is a training ground for Thai artists and it also showcases classical and contemporary work. Situated near Siriraj hospital, visitors can get there by taking the ferry across the river from Wang Lung pier.

The theatre features a beautifully ornate Thai-style garden. From June to February, the garden doubles as an open-air theatre, where up to 450 people can enjoy weekend performances. This is Bangkok’s only open-air playhouse and offers a unique experience for those in need of cultural entertainment.

In one corner of the garden, a photography gallery displays images of the performers and stills of the performances. Across the garden is a large restaurant, which offers picturesque views across the river. Known as Studio 9, this Dining Theatre by the River offers entertainment as well as tasty, affordable Thai food.

The theatre was founded in 1992 by Patravadi Mejudhon, who also serves as the theatre’s artistic director. The main goal of the theatre is to provide training and experience for Thai artists. The theatre provides workshops to both professionals and students of the Mahidol Universities.

In addition, the theatre’s exchange programme brings directors and choreographers from all over the world to train in Thai classical folk dancing. The Patravadi Theatre has developed widely since its creation. Its blend of traditional Thai decoration and culture with the addition of contemporary styles makes it a unique experience. Now, with an extra five art centres around Thailand, the Patravadi Theatre continues to grow, occasionally playing host to choreographers, directors and designers from around the world.

Not only bound to Bangkok, the Patravadi Theatre has performed on behalf of the Thai Government in cities such as London, Paris, Milan, Frankfurt and Kuala Lumpur.
The Patravadi Theatre provides both short and long term visitors as well as residents of Bangkok with a much needed dose of culture.

No visit to the Patravadi Theatre would be complete without sampling the refreshments at the Patravadi Restaurant. Open daily from 11 am-9 pm, the restaurant offers relaxing herbal teas and juices, Thai, vegetarian and Italian food and delicious homemade desserts.

Travelling on the Chao Phraya River

To get to the mighty Chao Phraya River, simply walk to the Gulliver’s end of Khaosan Road and cross the road. Take the short cut through Wat Chana Songkram and you will be in Soi Rambhutri. Follow the narrow lane ahead, cross the road and turn left. After about 50 meters you will come to a narrow alley leading to the pier. Should you get lost, simply ask any Thai ‘meanam unai’ (may-nam u-nigh) where is the river?

You are now on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, which is the preferred form of transport for many people. The river runs 372 kms from North to South and runs next to some of the city’s most interesting attractions. The closest pier to Khaosan Road is Tha (pier) Phra Athit – pier 13. From here, you can take a ferry down the river to the central pier. The journey takes about 30 minutes and is worth it just for the unexpected and intriguing sights on both sides, even if you don’t feel like exploring.

Finding the correct ferry is easy if you know what you’re looking for. The ferry will come from your right and have Nonthamburi written on the side. I prefer to catch the orange flag Express boats as they stop at all piers and come every 20 minutes. Yellow flag ferries stop at 10 piers, whilst those with a blue flag stop at just 3. The white Local Line Boat runs from 6-8:40 and 15:00-18:00. This ferry is mainly for commuters and very crowded. A trip along the river in an orange flag boat costs around 13 baht and tickets can be bought on board. I prefer to stand near the back, but be careful to avoid the area reserved for monks.

Alternatively, you may choose the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat, which is much larger and comfortable, if a little more expensive. The tourist boats often come with a guide, who will tell you the facts about each site as you chug past.

Once everyone is aboard, the conductor indicates to the driver through a system of high-pitched whistles and the journey is away. First, the ferry crosses the river to pier 12, Phra Pinklao Bridge. This is the closest stop to the Royal Barge Museum, which is worth a look.

Carrying on down the river, pier 11 is next to the Bangkok Noi (Thonburi) Railway Station, convenient if you’re catching a train out of Bangkok, whilst pier 10 is near Siriraj hospital and the Patravadi Theatre, home to Bangkok’s independent modern theatre company. After pier 10 the ferry crosses the river once more and arrives at Tha Chang, from where you can explore the Grand Palace.

Next, the ferry rounds a bend in the river and you are faced with one of the route’s most arresting sites. The bell-shaped pagoda of Wat Arun – temple of dawn – sits on the right-hand river bank. To visit the temple, get off at pier 8 and take a small ferry across the river. Wat Po – home of the Reclining Buddha – is also just a short walk from pier 8.
Further down the river, we come to Memorial Bridge – also known as Saphan Phut – at pier 6. Across the bridge you will find Wat Prayoon (the turtle temple) and the Princess Mother Memorial Park. Next to the pier is Pak Klong Market, Bangkok’s largest wet market and flower distribution center. Pier 5 is named Tha Rachawongs. This is the best place to stop if you want to explore China Town in all its colourful chaos.

Further down the river we come to pier 3, Tha Si Phraya. Here you will find an interesting antiques market and the Portuguese Embassy. Pier 1 is largely dedicated to the Oriental Hotel, which is a great place for a cup of tea. You can also visit the Assumption Cathedral and the recently renovated French Embassy.

The next stop finds us at our journey’s end. The Central pier – also known as Saphan Taksin- connects with the BTS. Here, you can catch a Sky Train to the center of Bangkok.

Indian restaurants around Khaosan Road

There are a wide variety of Indian restaurants around Khaosan Road, all offering a different atmosphere and dining experience. Here is a selection of those available.

The Indian Spice is located at 30 Soi Rambutri, next to King’s Fashion Tailors. The service is friendly and the atmosphere is relaxed with authentic Hindi music played in the background.

The specials include sheesha pipes, where two people can puff for an hour for 200 baht, including a free drink. There are a lot of vegetarian and meat dishes to choose from and the banana lassi is sweet and creamy.

Situated in the center of Khaosan Road, you can’t miss the tasteful neon palm trees outside Taste of India. Inside, the restaurant is very stylishly decorated and this is a good place for couples and families. The window seats are a must as they allow you to look out on the activity of Khaosan Road.

Another great feature of this restaurant is that they offer a delivery service, for when you just can’t make it out of the guesthouse. The owner – Vikas – is very friendly and happy to explain the menu over the phone. Call 081 8101744

Solo diners will feel particularly at home at Rainbow Restaurant, opposite Khaosan Road. Not only is the service friendly and quick, but ther is a large TV mounted on the wall showing Western movies to keep you company. Portionsd are large and the curries are rich and thick. There are even tables outside on the street so that you can stare out lovingly at Khaosan Road.

Red is the colour is Spicy Affair, situated at 235 Soi Rambutri, parallel to Khaosan Road. This sleek hole in the wall feels like something out of Arabian Nights, complete with wizened men smoking sheesha pipes at the back. The hostess is pretty hot too.
Call 081 3149307 or 081 173383

Opposite Spicy Affair, Masala India Restaurant provides an entirely Indian experience. Whilst not as stylishly decorated, the family feel and delicious food make this an enjoyable eatery.

‘Taan cow hi arroy na’ – enjoy your food.

Out and about in Bangkok

Bangkok is perhaps one of the most spectacular capital cities in Southeast Asia, if not the world. There is no limit to what can be seen, done and experienced in this immense city of colourful contradictions where gentle traditional beliefs meet the fast pace of capitalism and everything is tempered by the uniquely Thai sense of style and priority.

Many first time visitors to Bangkok find it overwhelming as there is simply so much to see and do and every area offers a new and interesting aspect of this city, which somehow manages to be simultaneously vast and quite compact.

A great way to get to know the city is the take a ferry along the Chao Phraya River. The river stops at many different piers and there are a whole host of famous sites right on the river bank, which can be explored or simply viewed from the ferry. Look out for the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun, whilst China Town and Khaosan Road are just a short walk from their piers.

The central pier connects with the Skytrain or BTS, and this is another great way to see the city. The Skytrain soars over Lumpini Park and stops at Siam, where you can find the large shiny shopping centres of MBK, Siam Paragon and The Discovery Center.

If you are interested in shopping, make sure you pay a visit to the famous Chatuchak Weekend Market, while the Night Bazaar at Sanam Luang is a great place to pick up a bargain whilst avoiding the heat of the day.

Bangkok is well known for its rich and varied nightlife, which covers just about every possible style and trend. For those interested in go-go bars head to areas such as Soi Cowboy, Nana Plaza or witness an eyebrow raising show in Patpong. There are plenty of stylish clubs, and the area known as RCA contains dozens of different clubs catering for every style of music. Along the banks of the river you will find dozens of bars in which to enjoy a cold drink and look at the stars, while in Sukhumvit you will find a number of Western-style theme pubs.

If the pace and pollution of the city get a bit much, there are plenty of city parks to get away from the traffic and relax for a while. Among the best are the enormous centrally located Lumpini Park, Chatuchak Park and Suan Rot Fai (Railway Park), where you can hire a bicycle or watch the butterflies in the insectarium.

The parks of Bangkok

Those who think that Bangkok is jut about bars, tuk-tuks and temples need to think again. The city contains a number of green zones, which are the perfect place to relax and unwind.

Lumphini is Bangkok’s largest, oldest and perhaps best known park. Easily reachable from Saladaeng Skytrain Station, the park covers a colossal 50km². Not only is Luphini Park a beautiful green zone, it is also a great place to see Thai life at its best. Large extended families picnic on blankets under the trees, young couples walk along holding hands, stalls are set up for barbers to ply their trade and merchants to sells snacks while all over the park you can see Indian men playing cricket and young Thais and westerners cycling and playing football in the sunshine.

From Lumphini Park you can take the Skytrain straight to Mo Chit and explore Bangkok’s second largest green area. Located next to the famous weekend market, Chatuchak Park is extremely beautiful and features a large lake and tennis courts.

Cross the road behind Chatuchak, walk a few meters and you will come to one of Bangkok’s best kept secrets. Known as Suan Rotfi or Railway Park, this is perhaps Bangkok’s most beautiful and least visited park, full of great facilities guaranteed to keep you coming back time and again.

The best way to explore this lush wonderland is by bike, and bicycles can be hired from the far end of the park. As you pass, pause to explore the Insectarium and Butterfly Centre, where you will find a colourful collection of butterflies, plants and insects. The park also contains a gym, swimming pool and some beautiful places to sit and relax.

When it’s time to make a move, take the Skytrain to Prompong station and walk to The Emporium Shopping Centre, which is located on Sukhumvit Road. Here you will discover Benjasiri Park, which was built to celebrate the Queen’s 60th birthday in 1992 and contains some magnificent Thai sculptures.

Situated on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, there is always something interesting to see at Santichaiprakan Park, especially in the evening, when the cool dusk air attracts jugglers, bongo players and Thai teenagers to show off their break dancing skills or play takraw.

Wat Arun

Viewed from the river, Wat Arun is a stirring sight. Situated on the far side of the river it towers above the other buildings around it and looks very different to other Thai temples. Whilst the surrounding temples are short with shining gold roofs, Wat Arun looks greenish-grey from a distance and has an enormous bell-shaped tower, known as a prang, which stretches heavenwards.

Visitors can cross the river at Tha Tien pier, which costs just 4 baht and takes a couple of minutes. Wander through the garden to the Ordination Hall, which contains the golden Niramir Buddha image said to have been designed by King Rama II. The way into the Ordination Hall is guarded be two gigantic demons, called yaksha in Thai. These demons stand either side of the entranceway and look very intimidating with their toothy scowls and huge swords. The white demon is named Sahassa Deja, while the green one is known as Thotsakan, who also appears in the Ramayana as Rāvana.

After walking through courtyards around a small prang and through the garden you will reach the main part of Wat Arun; the enormous 80-meter high central prang. The central prang is surrounded by four smaller prangs, marking the four main compass points. Around the base of these prangs are stone figures of ancient Chinese soldiers and animals as well as ornate bonsai plants.

There are steep stone steps leading up each of the four sides of the central prang, which is divided into sections with platforms leading around each section. It is possible to climb up the first section, and those who make the effort will be treated with an interesting view across the river and surrounding area.

The temple dates back to the 16^th century, when it was known as Wat Makok – the Olive temple. A highly revered temple, it had the honour of playing host to the mighty Emerald Buddha for a short time.

The best time to see Wat Arun is at sunset, when the sky behind the temple comes alive with colour. The riverside restaurants just opposite make a good viewing spot. As the sky darkens, Wat Arun is illuminated by spotlights and the scene is very romantic, making this a great place from a date.

Information: Wat Arun is open daily from 8:30 – 5:30.admission is just 50 baht for foreigners.

Bangkok’s Floating Markets

There are a number of floating markets located around Bangkok, which are interesting places to visit to gain an insight into Thailand’s past.

Damnoen Saduak Floating market is popular with tourists and many travel companies offer tours of the market, which include a trip along the canal networks in a longtailed boat. However, this market can be rather crowded

For visitors who crave a more authentic experience, a number of other floating markets can be found around Bangkok.

The Taling Chan Floating Market is located just outside central Bangkok and has remained true to its roots.  The women here wear traditional blue overalls, or ‘mor hom’ and conical hats and can be seen slowly paddling boats filled with fruit, vegetables and flowers. This market is held on Saturdays and Sundays from 9 am to 4 pm. To get there, take bus 79 or 83, or telephone 02424 5448 for more details.

The Tha Kha Floating Market is held six days a month from 6-12 on weekends, varying according to the Thai lunar calendar. Situated 10kms past Damnoen Saduak, it is best to visit around 7 a.m.

A return taxi journey costs around 700 Baht. Alternatively, take a bus to Samut Songkham from the Southern Bus Terminal and a mini bus from there.

Situated in the Bang Kruai district of Nonthanburi, the bang Khu Wian Floating Market is also worth a look. Visit around dawn and you will see traditional scenes of village life, untainted by modern values. To get there, simply take a boat from the Tha Chang Pier near the Grand Palace.